Colorado Meets Colombia

It's ‘bout time my separate realities collide!

Colombian Caribbean culture is not one for the timid—it’s in your face, loud, spontaneous, hot and humid, energetic. Just after leaving the airport, you’re in the hustle and bustle of motorcycles, blasting salsa music, poverty, bright colors, exotic people and foods. The Kuntz’s undertook it all head-on, and I loved re-observing the Costeno culture I’ve grown so accustomed to as my Colorado family confronted its strange and particular aspects… unheard of fruits, bus rides along the beach, tongue-twisting Spanish, resource-less schools, excess soup consumption, people everywhere in the streets, the lack of processing and packaging of materials, everyone hugging and kissing you. A mix between familiar and unfamiliar. 

Plus, I didn’t mind taking a break from my peso-pitching Peace Corps salary: taking cabs instead of buses, eating in restaurants instead of oatmeal for the 4^th time that week, and staying in hotels with air-conditioning!!

Often described as a mix between Spain and Cuba, we started here, in the historic center of Cartagena. The layout, architecture, fortress, and wall surrounding the city are testaments to Spanish colonization. Cartagena was also one of the most prominent slave trade centers in the Americas, and its Spanish and Caribbean cultures are fused with African dance, music, food, and people, thus making Cartagena’s historic center unlike any other.

Next it was straight to the barrios—that’s right, only one day to “settle in” before confronting the very different and arguably more “real” side of Cartagena that few tourists see. The center is just one small part of a sprawling city.

My Cartagenian family is comprised of about 25-30 people (give or take; I’m still not sure how everyone is related) who live on my street, but in my house itself it’s just me and the abuelas. My Colombian grandmas turned giddy teenagers—giggling about how gross eating a cow’s tongue or a turtle was to my family, thrilled that my mom learned how to cook fried plantains, using their best china and cooking special meals for us. They even swapped nightgowns for their best dresses.

Taking my family to my school was also incredible. Being teachers themselves, my parents noticed how “kids will be kids” and similarities in students uphold despite the stark differences in resources available. Colleagues were met, students realized they could communicate with people who knew very little Spanish, and finally my family met “Chicas Lideres Inedsoristas”, the girls’ empowerment and leadership group. I had four expat friends living in Cartagena come and present to the girls about how women in their culture live, giving the girls a chance to meet foreigners and broaden their mindset (and taste twizzlers and jolly ranchers).

Next we traveled to Santa Marta, with a short lay-over in Barranquilla to have lunch with my family who I lived with during three months of Peace Corps training prior to my service. We ate some chicken soup, played cards, exchanged gifts, walked around in 105 degree heat.

Tayrona National Park is located right outside of Santa Marta. Being Semana Santa (or Easter/Holy Week), I opted to take them on a path less-traveled in order to avoid the tourist craze. Well, 3.5 hours of straight mountain climbing later, we arrived at Playa Brava, pitying the donkeys that had to make that trip every day.

Back in Santa Marta, we visited with Henry, Angelica (a colleague and great friend), Sebastian and Laura Guzman and stayed at Henry’s military hotel where he lives. The “hotel” turned out to be a resort, complete with a pool, farm, pond, spa, restaurants, and hundreds of Colombian Generals and their families on vacation, plus us four random gringos. The Guzmans couldn’t have been more hospitable or kind.

Finally it was off to Isla Rosario, a national park with 20+ islands off the coast of Cartagena. It’s aesthetically overwhelming; a place you’ve only seen in postcards and paintings. After enduring the trek in and out of Playa Brava with us, we met up again with Jose, my boyfriend who works on an island as a scuba dive instructor. Through him I’ve become increasingly inspired and amazed by the coral reef that hides so close to Cartagena and right underneath the water surface; however, the rest of my mountain-dwelling family had never experienced anything like it. It’s feels like you're on another planet: the strange animals, the detailed coral, how delicate, intricate and interconnected it all is, the sensation of breathing underwater... Amazing! The pool lying, beach swimming, hammock napping, and excess eating weren't too bad either.

Having my Colorado life-line experience Colombia for themselves confirmed that this amazing life of mine actually DOES exist. I am so lucky for my family and Colombian life that I have haphazardly been given. It’s amazing to feel so in love with life (from the people in it, to my job) and to have my achievements and decisions recognized by my family. Here’s to all the rest of you visiting and seeing it for yourselves…!



On a separate but somewhat similar note: J Balvin, one of the most popular reggaeton artists in Colombia, just made a new music video filmed in the neighborhood right next to my school and where I live, called Olaya. Represent! It's also where Granitos de Paz, the local NGO that is collaborating with us on the When I Grow Up Project is located.

Wanna help these kids reach their higher education dreams and potential? YOU CAN! Donate to the NBC Children's Fund (the US-based NGO helping with the project, along with Granitos de Paz) using PayPal credit card services or sending a check. A little bit goes a long way! And make sure to watch OUR video... Visit this website and click "DONATE": http://nbcchildrensfund.org/good_news).

Nice to meet you, WORLD!

I know, I know… it has been too long. I haven’t intended to keep family and friends out of the loop (not to mention readers I don’t know… indeed, the blogspot application allowing me to view where my audience lives can seem a bit strange—helloooo out there, you Dutch, Ukranian, and French readers). I don’t blame laziness for my negligence; really, more than anything, I’d deem the culprit my current infatuation with life. I’m LOVING it and am busy trying to live this life to the fullest. I love my job. I love the people. I am never bored. I have worked hard to get here and am proud of myself. I know that the best is still to come in my Peace Corps service.

To briefly wrap up the past 2 months of our new and improved girls’ empowerment and leadership program, I should start by saying that the grant through the US Agency for International Development and Peace Corps that I wrote (for daaaays) and received has made this year that much easier and interactive. Instead of using my Peace Corps salary (which was already hard enough to support just myself on) to buy food, photocopies, and materials last year for the program, we now have grant money for that, plus more to buy extra supplies, pay for transportation to bring in community members and take the girls out of our neighborhood, and pay for materials for projects, among other things.

We have 24 girls in the program, aged 14-17. I am still the one designing our activities, establishing contacts, creating community service projects; however, Mariela and Dayra (the two social workers at my school) continue to help enormously and come every week to help out with the activities planned.

Our latest “topic” has been learning about the lifestyles of other women in the world, aka life outside of our Colombian neighborhood. One particularly exciting project we completed was to paint a monstrous 12 foot map of the world in our school. Many students do not know which counties boarder Colombia, let alone countries outside of Latin America. Furthermore, when in my pursuit of a world map, I had to go to about six different stores in two cities until I found one that cost US $40—hmm, there’s a reason no one seems to know geography... world maps just don’t exist.

My sincerest apologies to those countries that were left out, especially Southeast Asia and Eastern Europe… it’s not perfect. BUT at least when students see this map, regardless of a few mistakes, it may make them think about how much world there is outside of Colombia, let alone our neighborhood. 

When I Grow Up Project--DONATE!

The "When I Grow Up Project" is officially up and running! Well, half way there--working on setting up an an account in Colombia/with my high school so that Colombians can donate (in the end, this is maybe the most important aspect). The ultimate goal is to get more low-income students to attend and graduate from university. I believe 100% in this project. 

I work at Soledad Roman de Nunez, a large, public high school in Cartagena, Colombia. Most of my students come from the lowest socio-economic conditions of extreme poverty. However, despite challenges and temptations (gangs, racism, displacement, malnutrition, violence, and a struggling school system, among others), there are students who rise above these circumstances. They define “inspirational”. Highly intelligent and driven, they will excel in higher education. They want to attend university, not just for personal profit, but also to help their families and communities, confronting issues that they understand and are empowered to change. However, regardless of overcoming so much, many capable students do not even apply to university because the entrance exam fee alone is too expensive. Furthermore, if they do enroll, many will not be able to pay for transportation, new clothes, or lunch in order to save money for school supplies and tuition. In the end, lack of money is what stops them from reaching their "When I Grow Up" dreams, nothing else. The cycle of poverty endures. 

After months of designing the project with teachers, social workers, and university professors, we have partnered with NBC Children's Fund, an NGO started by a returned Peace Corps Volunteer, Carolyn Carpenter.

Together, we hope to give these children the opportunity they deserve and to stop the cycle of poverty by funding the following:

1. To offer a preparatory course to help students pass the University of Cartagena entrance exam. (Cost per student: $20)

2. To cover the cost of the entrance exam fee for those students who pass the preparatory course described above. (Cost per student: $50).

3. To finance 75% of the first year’s tuition at the University of Cartagena. (Cost per student: $500).

To donate:
1. Visit NBC Children’s Fund’s website and donate via pal-pal.
http://nbcchildrensfund.org

2. Send a check to NBC Children’s Fund, specifying the “When I Grow Up Project”, to the following address (therefore 3% of donations will not be lost to credit cardcompanies):

NBC Children’s Fund
211 Roslindale Ave. #2
Boston, MA 02131

The goal of the project is to have 20-25 students from my school take the preparatory course and apply to the University of Cartagena in addition to financing 75% of the first year’s tuition for 2-4 students. Only students from the lowest socio-economic classes are eligible. At least 50% of participants will be female and 20% of Afro-Colombian descent.

If sufficient funds are raised and the goals described above are met, additional public high schools in Cartagena where a Peace Corps volunteer is present may also receive funding, therefore incorporating additional students and making an impact throughout the city.

Finally, the “When I Grow Up Project” and all its donations are in honor of my mom, Joan Kuntz. Passion, altruism and determination are traits possessed by Joan and many students at Soledad Roman de Nunez. People with these qualities have the potential for positive impact, whatever their nationality, socio-economic status or culture. Joan exemplifies that taking the risk to be the change she wishes to see in the world can make all the difference in one’s own life and that of others. She embodies the importance of education and, like many students at Soledad Roman de Nunez, is an inspiration to her family, friends, colleagues, and students.

Make sure to check out our video on the NBC Children’s Fund website or on youtube:

http://nbcchildrensfund.org

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6zkTkr1hlg&feature=youtu.be 

*Make sure to click CC for English subtitles*

Also, if you have facebook, like and join our cause:

http://www.causes.com/causes/808401-when-i-grow-up-project?fb_action_ids=696277053218&fb_action_types=causes:recruit&fb_source=timeline_og&action_object_map={%22696277053218%22:461230690607258}&action_type_map={%22696277053218%22:%22causes:recruit%22}&action_ref_map=[]

The holiday season in particular is a time to realize how fortunate we are and to give back. Want to give a gift that can truly change a life?—Please donate to the “When I Grow Up Project” and share it with other family and friends.

SPA Grant Proposal Approved!

SPA, or Small Project Assistance, is a grant available to Peace Corps volunteers. Seems pretty simple: come up with an awesome, sustainable project that addresses a community needs, gain community support, write up a grant, present the proposal, and waaala… money in da bank. What’s not to love…?

Well, I tell ya. 

Seventeen pages of Spanish essays and graphs, countless drafts, trying (fairly unsuccessfully) to get people at my school to help me write it, a presentation in front of PC Colombia staff, re-writing essays in English, getting a new bank account, and on and on and on… it wasn’t so simple. Furthermore, being the “guiney-pig” is never easy and as the first volunteer to apply for and receive a SPA grant in Colombia since the program reopened, it has been a learning process for the office staff as well as me, note the extra re-writes/corrections and last minute details or trips to Barranquilla.

But, needless to say, it is FINISHED! Kaput! Chicas Lideres INEDSORistas, a girls empowerment and leadership project in my school/neighborhood, has been going on since May, 2012, but it is about to get a new makeover with the couple thousand dollars we now have thanks to the SPA grant and community contribution. I couldn't be more pumped about the need and potential for a program like this! 

We plan to start next school year, so end of January 2013 with 20-25 girls from 10^th and 11^th grade (the oldest students). We will continue learning about topics regarding sexual, emotional, and physical health every week for two hours. Now, in addition, we will be bring in professionals to talk to the girls about their jobs, thus hopefully opening the girls' minds to career possibilities other than what they know: selling phone minutes on the street, making empanadas, or unemployment, for example. Furthermore, we will bring them to universities and help them to understand the application process and eventually to apply. Finally, the girls will analyze their school and neighborhood’s’ needs and, with our help, design community service projects that they will later and carry-out in the school and outside in their neighborhoods.

On a final note: to end this school year, the girls presented to all of 10^th grade (about 230 students) about HIV/AIDS prevention. It takes guts to put a condom on a dildo in front of all of your classmates, and they did it, not only with confidence, but correctly! I’m so proud. Amazing girls.  

Cartagena Carnival: Disorder. Debauchery. Dancing.

November 11^th is Cartagena’s Independence Day. But why celebrate for one day when you could for two weeks?

Beauty pageants are one of Cartagena's most infamous events. There are two. The"Reyna Nacional" includes ladies from around Colombia, usually from very affluent families, and the winner continues onto the Miss Universe pageant. The second is the "Reyna Popular," where ladies from Cartagena's various neighborhoods and socio-economic strata compete. Gorgeous people takin’ over!

I think that pictures describe my experience best. I, however, managed to take zero photos, naturally. Photo credit: Random neighbors, Kristy Ellis, Samantha Merkle

In October, as queens were selected for the "Reyna Popular" pageant, neighborhoods threw massive parties with hundreds of people, concerts, fireworks, and drinks.

So, for Halloween Nicole and I represented winners from our respective neighborhoods: Miss Los Calamares and Miss Escallon Villa. We borrowed a neighbor's dresses, found crowns and fake eyelashes, made sashes... and BAM!--after caking on some make-up and molding some fake boobs and badonkadunks, the resemblance was uncanny. Needless to say, I received more cat-calls that night than any prior thanks to the 15-odd tshirts I shoved into the back of my shorts.

Yes, we did consider "political correctness"; however, all fears were put to rest when the host family/neighbors thought it was hysterical. 

We also celebrated Halloween in several of my classes, although I opted to not come as Senorita Escallon Villa. One can only do so much cultural integration at a time...

Classes were out the week of Carnival (November 2-12). In the days prior students came to school, but classes were replaced by pre-carnival celebrations.  

Teachers in Colombia colors

Carnival season begins at school

For the "Reyna Nacional" pageant, events were underway the entire week.

There were parades

Getting interviewed on TV with my partner in crime for the week, Kristy. Check out her Cartagena tourism website: ticartagena.com. It's fantastic! Needless to say, Kristy knows everyone and everything about the city and let me tag along as her +1 to some pretty awesome gigs. 

Fancy dinners

Nightlife and dancing

Sammy came all the way from Santa Marta to celebrate my birthday/carnival! 

Costumes galore

Fireworks, foam and water being thrown AT people (seriously scary--I do not like this aspect of Cartagena's carnival). In my neighborhood this also included urine, paint, and bags of water. Gross.

And finally... turning 25! 

I spent the day at my house with Colombian and ex-pat friends and family...ate some food, plowed our way through 3 cakes, drank some beers, and watched a parade pass by. That night we went out of dinner, avoided "busca-pies" or the firecrackers that explode at people's feet as we meandered our way through crowded streets, and eventually ended up at a salsa bar. 

The cake Lila, a teacher from school, brought over

Some of the family/neighbors

Three US friends and Edith, one of my Colombian grandmas... welcome to my world

In all: great people, great times. I caught myself laughing as the Peace Corps, jungle, hut-dweller image I initially envisioned faded as I took another bite of shrimp and looked out from the rooftop onto the beauty pageant parade below. However, writing this from the comfort of my little neighborhood, I can say it's good to be back. As crazy and disorganized as my Peace Corps lifestyle is, Cartagena's carnival just raised the bar. It's all about getting a new perspective anyways, right?