Colorado Meets Colombia

It's ‘bout time my separate realities collide!

Colombian Caribbean culture is not one for the timid—it’s in your face, loud, spontaneous, hot and humid, energetic. Just after leaving the airport, you’re in the hustle and bustle of motorcycles, blasting salsa music, poverty, bright colors, exotic people and foods. The Kuntz’s undertook it all head-on, and I loved re-observing the Costeno culture I’ve grown so accustomed to as my Colorado family confronted its strange and particular aspects… unheard of fruits, bus rides along the beach, tongue-twisting Spanish, resource-less schools, excess soup consumption, people everywhere in the streets, the lack of processing and packaging of materials, everyone hugging and kissing you. A mix between familiar and unfamiliar. 

Plus, I didn’t mind taking a break from my peso-pitching Peace Corps salary: taking cabs instead of buses, eating in restaurants instead of oatmeal for the 4^th time that week, and staying in hotels with air-conditioning!!

Often described as a mix between Spain and Cuba, we started here, in the historic center of Cartagena. The layout, architecture, fortress, and wall surrounding the city are testaments to Spanish colonization. Cartagena was also one of the most prominent slave trade centers in the Americas, and its Spanish and Caribbean cultures are fused with African dance, music, food, and people, thus making Cartagena’s historic center unlike any other.

Next it was straight to the barrios—that’s right, only one day to “settle in” before confronting the very different and arguably more “real” side of Cartagena that few tourists see. The center is just one small part of a sprawling city.

My Cartagenian family is comprised of about 25-30 people (give or take; I’m still not sure how everyone is related) who live on my street, but in my house itself it’s just me and the abuelas. My Colombian grandmas turned giddy teenagers—giggling about how gross eating a cow’s tongue or a turtle was to my family, thrilled that my mom learned how to cook fried plantains, using their best china and cooking special meals for us. They even swapped nightgowns for their best dresses.

Taking my family to my school was also incredible. Being teachers themselves, my parents noticed how “kids will be kids” and similarities in students uphold despite the stark differences in resources available. Colleagues were met, students realized they could communicate with people who knew very little Spanish, and finally my family met “Chicas Lideres Inedsoristas”, the girls’ empowerment and leadership group. I had four expat friends living in Cartagena come and present to the girls about how women in their culture live, giving the girls a chance to meet foreigners and broaden their mindset (and taste twizzlers and jolly ranchers).

Next we traveled to Santa Marta, with a short lay-over in Barranquilla to have lunch with my family who I lived with during three months of Peace Corps training prior to my service. We ate some chicken soup, played cards, exchanged gifts, walked around in 105 degree heat.

Tayrona National Park is located right outside of Santa Marta. Being Semana Santa (or Easter/Holy Week), I opted to take them on a path less-traveled in order to avoid the tourist craze. Well, 3.5 hours of straight mountain climbing later, we arrived at Playa Brava, pitying the donkeys that had to make that trip every day.

Back in Santa Marta, we visited with Henry, Angelica (a colleague and great friend), Sebastian and Laura Guzman and stayed at Henry’s military hotel where he lives. The “hotel” turned out to be a resort, complete with a pool, farm, pond, spa, restaurants, and hundreds of Colombian Generals and their families on vacation, plus us four random gringos. The Guzmans couldn’t have been more hospitable or kind.

Finally it was off to Isla Rosario, a national park with 20+ islands off the coast of Cartagena. It’s aesthetically overwhelming; a place you’ve only seen in postcards and paintings. After enduring the trek in and out of Playa Brava with us, we met up again with Jose, my boyfriend who works on an island as a scuba dive instructor. Through him I’ve become increasingly inspired and amazed by the coral reef that hides so close to Cartagena and right underneath the water surface; however, the rest of my mountain-dwelling family had never experienced anything like it. It’s feels like you're on another planet: the strange animals, the detailed coral, how delicate, intricate and interconnected it all is, the sensation of breathing underwater... Amazing! The pool lying, beach swimming, hammock napping, and excess eating weren't too bad either.

Having my Colorado life-line experience Colombia for themselves confirmed that this amazing life of mine actually DOES exist. I am so lucky for my family and Colombian life that I have haphazardly been given. It’s amazing to feel so in love with life (from the people in it, to my job) and to have my achievements and decisions recognized by my family. Here’s to all the rest of you visiting and seeing it for yourselves…!



On a separate but somewhat similar note: J Balvin, one of the most popular reggaeton artists in Colombia, just made a new music video filmed in the neighborhood right next to my school and where I live, called Olaya. Represent! It's also where Granitos de Paz, the local NGO that is collaborating with us on the When I Grow Up Project is located.

Wanna help these kids reach their higher education dreams and potential? YOU CAN! Donate to the NBC Children's Fund (the US-based NGO helping with the project, along with Granitos de Paz) using PayPal credit card services or sending a check. A little bit goes a long way! And make sure to watch OUR video... Visit this website and click "DONATE": http://nbcchildrensfund.org/good_news).