Cartagena Carnival: Disorder. Debauchery. Dancing.

November 11^th is Cartagena’s Independence Day. But why celebrate for one day when you could for two weeks?

Beauty pageants are one of Cartagena's most infamous events. There are two. The"Reyna Nacional" includes ladies from around Colombia, usually from very affluent families, and the winner continues onto the Miss Universe pageant. The second is the "Reyna Popular," where ladies from Cartagena's various neighborhoods and socio-economic strata compete. Gorgeous people takin’ over!

I think that pictures describe my experience best. I, however, managed to take zero photos, naturally. Photo credit: Random neighbors, Kristy Ellis, Samantha Merkle

In October, as queens were selected for the "Reyna Popular" pageant, neighborhoods threw massive parties with hundreds of people, concerts, fireworks, and drinks.

So, for Halloween Nicole and I represented winners from our respective neighborhoods: Miss Los Calamares and Miss Escallon Villa. We borrowed a neighbor's dresses, found crowns and fake eyelashes, made sashes... and BAM!--after caking on some make-up and molding some fake boobs and badonkadunks, the resemblance was uncanny. Needless to say, I received more cat-calls that night than any prior thanks to the 15-odd tshirts I shoved into the back of my shorts.

Yes, we did consider "political correctness"; however, all fears were put to rest when the host family/neighbors thought it was hysterical. 

We also celebrated Halloween in several of my classes, although I opted to not come as Senorita Escallon Villa. One can only do so much cultural integration at a time...

Classes were out the week of Carnival (November 2-12). In the days prior students came to school, but classes were replaced by pre-carnival celebrations.  

Teachers in Colombia colors

Carnival season begins at school

For the "Reyna Nacional" pageant, events were underway the entire week.

There were parades

Getting interviewed on TV with my partner in crime for the week, Kristy. Check out her Cartagena tourism website: ticartagena.com. It's fantastic! Needless to say, Kristy knows everyone and everything about the city and let me tag along as her +1 to some pretty awesome gigs. 

Fancy dinners

Nightlife and dancing

Sammy came all the way from Santa Marta to celebrate my birthday/carnival! 

Costumes galore

Fireworks, foam and water being thrown AT people (seriously scary--I do not like this aspect of Cartagena's carnival). In my neighborhood this also included urine, paint, and bags of water. Gross.

And finally... turning 25! 

I spent the day at my house with Colombian and ex-pat friends and family...ate some food, plowed our way through 3 cakes, drank some beers, and watched a parade pass by. That night we went out of dinner, avoided "busca-pies" or the firecrackers that explode at people's feet as we meandered our way through crowded streets, and eventually ended up at a salsa bar. 

The cake Lila, a teacher from school, brought over

Some of the family/neighbors

Three US friends and Edith, one of my Colombian grandmas... welcome to my world

In all: great people, great times. I caught myself laughing as the Peace Corps, jungle, hut-dweller image I initially envisioned faded as I took another bite of shrimp and looked out from the rooftop onto the beauty pageant parade below. However, writing this from the comfort of my little neighborhood, I can say it's good to be back. As crazy and disorganized as my Peace Corps lifestyle is, Cartagena's carnival just raised the bar. It's all about getting a new perspective anyways, right?

A Cartagenian Funeral

Jairo, a very close friend, lost his brother Jorge this week. It was a confusing and terrible loss. Jorge was a adored, happy and considerate man. Jairo has, yet again, has astounded me with his selflessness, always prioritizing others' needs first.

This is my second funeral since arriving in Cartagena, although I am closer with this family. How a community deals with death is indicative of its culture, Colombia as no exception. The Colombian strong sense of community and interpersonal reliance has been particularly noticeable this week.

The day he died, the vigil was in a “funeralia”, or building where families rent one of 16 rooms. While in the US this usually happens at home or at a small funeral house with only the close family and friends, hundreds of people came throughout the day to be with the family and cried openly in front of strangers. The following day was the funeral service at the cemetery, which was overall pretty similar. After the funeral, the family continues to morn for seven days. Of course in the US people visit with the family, call, send cards and flowers, and cook dinners, among other gestures; however, we also give the grieving family space and don't “bother” them too much. On the contrary, people here continue to call every day and the house is full with guests.

Differences in "family life" also create contrasts in how people deal with death. In Cartagena, families are large, and all members live in the same city, if not in the same house or right next door. People spend time with their parents, siblings, nephews/neces, children, aunts/uncles, and grandparents daily; few have to fly or drive in from other locations. Dealing with death during and after the nine day morning period together seems only natural.